THE WINES
Wild fermented and raised entirely in stainless. We always preferred the estate’s Petit to the AC Chablis, a happy thing when the cheaper wine is the favourite, though this release certainly blurs the lines between Petit and AC.
Richness and concentration is the theme here, a particularly textural release. Cream honey, white flowers lead the aromatics, with the palate offering up grapefruit, yellow peach and quince, overlaid by a fine but pronounced mineral edge. The volume of everything is turned up for the 2023 edition of this cuvée, remains as reliable as ever
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Additional Information ABOUT THE PRODUCER
We couldn’t not take on Domaine Félix really, though namesakes aside this estate, imported since 2015 has provided us with an increasingly rare paradigm of tasty, affordable, authentic estate-raised Burgundy.
The family traces winemaking lineage back to the late 1600s in the region, though the estate’s current form took root in 1981 under the impish Hervé Félix. Holdings expanded from 11 to 31 hectares, covering various appellations of the Yonne department including Chablis and Petit Chablis, Irancy, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre (the estate choosing to label Bourgogne for simplicity), and Saint-Bris.
Under Hervé, viticulture was taken to culture raisonée, a term we wish would gain more traction – essentially organic practice though reserving the right to use non-certifiable chemicals only in an emergency situation to save the crop which is of course infrequent.
Hervé’s son Olivier joined the domaine around 2016; trained as an engineer it’s been pleasing to watch his growth from almost reluctant secondee to a passionate and committed vigneron, his changes becoming more apparent in the wines as Hervé steps back towards retirement. Wild ferments and a revision of oak practices (more stainless steel used in elevage) sees the wines looking tighter, fresher and more nuanced. Olivier’s partner Elodie has stepped into a management role, and Olivier also serves as mayor of the winery’s locale Saint-Bris – suffice to say the domaine is in safe and forward thinking hands.
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Biodynamic Minimal Intervention Wines From A Beautiful Adelaide Hills Estate
Owner Damon Nagel started life as a sommelier in Adelaide, moving to London to further his wine education whilst working in top end dining restaurants. Achieving success in London property, he would eventually return to Adelaide, purchasing the beautiful undulating Brackenwood farm in the early 2000s, first releasing wines from vintage 2005.
Winemaking is today overseen by Daniel Zuzolo, ex Primo Estate, with the stable offering interesting blends and lesser seen plantings of Barbera and Gamay alongside more traditional offerings such as Shiraz and Riesling.
Growing and winemaking is strictly along biodynamic lines, with no additions bar minimal sulphur at bottling. A pure set of releases very much at home alongside Felixir’s European offerings, fun styles of personality with enough depth and interest to be taken seriously.
